A week alone in Helsinki

• By admin
• July 29, 2016
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Helsinki Railway station

Finlandia

Helen had a date to attend the wedding of a friend of Sophie’s that the Miltons have known forever (very happy day it transpired) and leaving me to my own devices for a week. Helen had painted a rather unfair portrait of a ‘Colditz’ like campsite – well it really wasn’t that bad at all, but to be efficient all the ‘vans’ are parked in chevron rows but at least 4.0m apart and separated by hedges, and wonderfully 5 minutes’ walk to the metro.

The population of Finland is about 5.5m – 2/3rds the population of greater London, and Helsinki at the moment is growing from 670k in 2014, and its suburbs spread far and wide over many bridges and viaducts to many peninsulas and islands, connected by free flowing urban freeways that make for rapid access. So the elbow room enjoyed really is a contrast with southern European, only the old city centre had a bit of bustle. There is a lot of St Petersburg influenced palace style buildings, rather Baroque, but then these change as one moves away from the centre (10minutes walking) to an extraordinary mix of art nouveau and art deco buildings, which have rather a lack of joy, but they are diverse. There is also the proximity of Russia that adds a certain air.

It is also the city where one of the modern masters of architecture practiced, Alvar Alto, who was as influential in his way as Le Corbusier and Mies van de Rohe. The guide books don’t mention him too much but, arguably the best building in the city is Finlandia, the concert hall with an adjoining conference centre which he designed. It is a city which finds music very important.

On a more mundane note – the weekend was the midsummer holiday when the city empties, and most of the shops are shut – so tourists only, and thankfully the Aussie Bar, where I could joyfully consume two pints of Guinness and a chicken curry pie and watch England complete the 3-0 whitewash against Australia.